30.09.2018

Illinois: On the Road again

by Dirk Baumgartl

To explore the American state of Illinois, you can choose between two very attractive routes, both starting in Chicago: While the Great River Road follows the meanders of the Mississippi River, the legendary Route 66 has different attractions on offer: historic petrol stations, diners and motels are a tribute to the American Way of Life as it was in the past.

The “Trolleys” take you around town

Galena: small but beautiful

The small town of Galena in the west of Illinois, just a three hours drive from Chicago, has an eventful history. It owes its prosperity mainly to the rich deposits of lead ore in the region. This small town close to the estuaries of the Mississippi River was also used as a landing stage for large steamers and as a central trading post. A good 85 per cent of all buildings are located in the historic district and make a stroll or a trip on one of the “Trolleys” particularly attractive. Galena has managed to preserve its charm as a small town as it was in the middle of the 19th century. Fast food and coffee chains, typical of most other US-American towns cannot be found here. The main street is lined with small boutiques and shops instead: E.g. the American Old Fashioned Ice Cream Parlor with its delicious ice cream creations or the Great American Popcorn Company. Its offer ranges from popcorn in flavors such as cheddar, pepper & herbs to bacon.

Robert and Douglas, managing Aldrich Guest House since 2014

The small town with just over 3,500 inhabitants, has become a brand name also in the LGBTIQ* community as a liberal holiday resort (“Gaylina”). “Us being gay is not an issue here at all,” state Robert and Douglas, proud owners of Aldrich Guest House since 2014, a historic Bed & Breakfast. With great attention to detail, they have carefully modernised the more than 170-year-old manor house, that had served as a local country club at times. The two mid-thirties also recommend canoe trips on the Galena River or a trip to Chestnut Mountain, about 45 minutes away. “You can even ski there in winter. Main Street of Galina in full Christmas decoration is particularly appealing and festive” says Robert. The highlight is one night in December, when Main Street is illuniated by about 5,000 lanterns and actors perform in the shop windows. Galena is also the starting point for a drive south on Great River Road. Following the Mississippi, you reach towns such as Moline, where you can board a steamer for a trip on the river, Nauvoo, founded by Mormons, and Alton, home of the National Great Rivers Museum.

Pontiac: Welcome to the city of automobiles

Pontiac is the first mandatory stop when travelling on the famous Route 66, which links Chicago to Santa Monica near Los Angeles on about 4,000 kilometres of road. A huge mural displaying a “Route 66” sign outside the Route 66 Hall of Fame & Museum invites you to park your car right in front of it to take a selfie. The museum itself houses a remarkable collection of memorabilia around the route also known as Mother Road. There is plenty also of street art near the Route 66 Museum. A visit to the neighbouring Pontiac Oakland Automobile Museum will make any car fan’s heart beat a little faster. The vehicles on display there reflect the glorious history of the sports cars once manufactured by General Motors, from the first ones in 1899 to the last assembled in 2010.

Waterfalls at Starved Rock State Park

Both the car name and the name of the city are a reference to a chief of the Ottawa Indian tribe and leader of the so-called Pontiac Uprising against the British colonial powers. In Starved Rock State Park, about an hour north of Pontiac, you will find the name of the Indian chief again: According to legend, Pontiac was murdered by other tribes, and in the ensuing conflicts members of the Illinois tribe were starved to death on the top of a rock. Hence the name. Starved Rock is at the centre of one of the most beautiful nature parks in Illinois in these days, that is rather unique as most of Illinois consists mainly of a flat prairie landscape. Rivers and streams have dug a total of 18 canyons into the sandstone here. Starved Rock Lodge, surrounded by lush forests that offer plenty of hiking trails, was built entirely of wood in the 1930s, and offers both hotel rooms and log cabins. At only a two hours drive from Chicago, Starved Rock State Park can also be discovered on a day excursion.

Springfield: Where history can be felt

If you choose to stay on Route 66 and drive on it south from Pontiac you will reach the state capital of Illinois, Springfield in about 1 hour. There are legendary places here too: the Cozy Dog Drive In and its speciality, a type of hot dog on a stick, or the newly opened Motorheads Bar & Grill, heavily decorated with historical petrol pumps and neon signs. But the city is best known for its link to Abraham Lincoln. He was a resident of Springfield until his election as 16th President of the United States and his mausoleum can also be found here. The Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library, an impressive replica of the White House gives information in short films about one of the most important U.S. presidents, the American Civil War and the assassination of Lincoln and his consequential death on April 15th, 1865.

Abraham Lincoln doppelgangers can be seen pretty much everywhere in Springfield

The block where Lincoln and his family once lived, under the care of the National Parks in these days, is populated by Abe Lincoln doubles and actors in historical costumes in the summer months. This comprises the old Capitol where both Abraham Lincoln and Barack Obama proclaimed their presidential candidacies. The new Illinois State Capitol can be found near here, built between 1868 and 1888, its impressive dome even higher than that of the Capitol in Washington, D.C. Springfield PrideFest, using the Capitol’s dome in rainbow colours as a logo takes place every year in May by the Capitol. Doug Mayol, owner of the gift card and sock shop The Cardologist, usually leaves twon then. “Too much hype,” the 60-year-old explains during a chat in his shop. As a gay man he feels at home in Springfield, enjoys the peace and quiet and is happy to serve customers from all over the world who come to Springfield because of their interest in history. On weekends in particular, tourists and locals alike meet at Springfield’s Station House, the only bar for the local LGBTIQ* community. Springfield also has a real treasure for fans of architecture: The Dana-Thomas House, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and built between 1902 and 1904, is one of the few houses whose original interior is almost completely preserved and is well worth a visit. The ensemble of furniture, lamps and window designs make you feel Wright’s “Prairie Style” as he had inteded it. The Dana-Thomas House is also one of the highlights of the new Frank Lloyd Wright Trail, which comprises a total of 13 buildings all in Illinois designed by the architectural legend and open to the public. Wright’s former home and studio can also be visited and is a good reason to drive the 320 kilometres back to Chicago and more precisely to its suburb of Oak Park.