Its reputation is certainly not the best: Texas has always been considered a stronghold of conservatism and the two presidents of the Bush dynasty have done their best to anchor this image firmly in people’s minds. But Dallas is back. And this is not only for the reason that the sequel of the 1980s TV series was relased in the US in mid-June 2012 and hyped with a lot of PR and will be shown on RTL Germany in spring 2013.

Dallas especially, the 1.2 million city on the Trinity River, is far more liberal than you might think. Over 75 per cent of the population voted for Democrat John Kerry in the 2004 presidential elections. History also made it the scene of one of the greatest tragedies in the United States. Right in the centre of Dallas, on the corner of Houston and Elm Street, the shots were fired that killed John F. Kennedy on November 22nd, 1963. The building from which at least one of the shots were fired is now a museum that traces meticulously the day of the assassination and also shows the biographies of likely assassins and conspiracy theories.
When the skyline of Dallas glows in the light of the setting sun after the heat of the day, it is time to get ready for the night. Theatre and opera fans can now make their way to the Arts District.

America’s largest conncected cultural quarter, adjacent to downtown, stretches over 19 blocks and has been supplemented with impressive buildings in recent years. Four Pritzker Prize winners, namely Renzo Piano, Sir Norman Foster, I.M. Pei and Rem Kolhaas, have created an impressive cultural landscape with their museums and theatre buildings. Opera House and the shiny Performing Arts Center  above all – both opened in 2009 – are worth a visit, best whilst enjoying a performance.

The centre of the gay scene is a few kilometres away from downtown. Oak Lawn is the name of the neighbourhood that has been the heart of Dallas’ gay community for over 30 years. Along Cedar Springs Road are numerous restaurants, shops, bars and clubs. The newest addition to the Strip is the Ilume complex. The modern, stylish apartment building featuring a fitness club, outdoor pool and a bar that can be rented if you are a  resident is the American answer to the gay and lesbian housing projects in Germany that are planned more as a social measure. The majority of tenants are young, trendy – and single. The gay scene is right on the doorstep after all. And that’s something to be proud of: The bars are hard to beat in terms of variety, size and facilities. Whether live music at Alexandre’s, karaoke at Woody’s or raging drag shows at Rose Room – no matter if during the week or on weekends: there is always something going in one of the ten bars and clubs on the Strip at night. There are as many bars off Cedar Springs Road – including stripper bars like BJ’s or leather bar Eagle.

One of the institurions on the Strip, besides J.R.’s, is the legendary Round-Up Saloon. Not only Lady Gaga was spotted here – the big, western-style club is the mecca for Line- and Western dance. There are free dance lessons for the guests during the week and it is a special experience to  take part in such an evening once. Not only the barkeepers wearing cowboy hats are always in good humour – also many guests emphasise their excitement by dressing Texas-style.

If you want to see more of the real cowboy culture, the best thing to do is to take a trip to nearby Fort Worth. Since the gay city councillor Joel Burns gave a moving speech before his colleagues in a session in 2010 as a contribution to the “It gets better”-campaign, Fort Worth is also well known among gays. The speech received a lot of media attention and was made to encourage young gays to continue their way despite all the difficulties and hostilities.
Dallas’ twin city is mainly known for Fort Worth Stockyards. These were once one of the largest livestock trading centers in the U.S. and a switchpoint for herds from southern Texas on their way to Kansas. Around the Stockyards, Fort Worth has retained the charm of a Western city. Rustic cowboy pubs and steak houses, plush hotels and souvenir shops line North Main Street. The daily highlight is the “Cattle Drive”, which takes place at 11:30 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. respectively, and in which a small herd of Longhorn cattle is driven around the Stockyards. Rodeos and the huge cowboy bar Billy Bob’s take you on an excursion into the heterosexual Western world at night.

If you’d rather go gay,  Reflection and Rainbow Lounge offer the best alternatives. Fort Worth’s collections at Kimbell Art and Modern Art Museum prove that it is not second place to Dallas when it comes to art. Modern Art Museum is a minimalist and light-flooded building by the Japanese architect and Pritzker prize winner Tadao Ando, in hosting an exhibition of portraits by Lucian Freud until the end of October. Cowboys and culture – they just go wonderfully together in Texas.

INFO

www.glbtdallas.com
Official homepage of Dalllas Tourism Office including tips for gay and lesbian visitors.

www.dallastavernguild.org
Information on the gay scene with detailed overview on bars and clubs, plus event calendar.

HOW TO GET THERE

American Airlines offers daily flights non-stop form Frankfurt to Dallas/Fort Worth. Being member of Oneworld Alliance, Air Berlin offers feeder flights to London with connection to AA flights to Dallas, up to three flights a day. Tickets start at 625 Euros in Economy and 1982 Euros in Business Class. www.aa.com/rainbow

HOTELS

Crowne Plaza Hotel (Market Center 7050 North Stemmons Freeway ) Close to the gay scene. Partner hotel des of the leather gathering A.W.O.L., www.crowneplaza.com/dallas

Hilton Anatole Hotel (2201 North Stemmons Freeway) Gigantic, but beautiful hotel close to the gay scene, www.hiltonanatolehotel.com

Palomar Hotel (5300 E Mockingbird Lane) Boutique hotel carefully designed by Kimpton Group, hosting the the amazing restaurant „Central 214“, www.hotelpalomar-dallas.com

All information on the gay scene can be found in SPARTACUS App or at Spartacus International Gay Guide.

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