Decadence – this is probably the best way to describe a city’s attitude to life, which differs so much from other American cities thanks to its history, which is mainly influenced by French culture. A stroll through the French Quarter, the heart of historic New Orleans, will inevitably bring to your mind all those images that have made a lasting impression, especially through numerous movies. Be it the strange funeral procession at the beginning of the James Bond film “Live and let die”, which turns into a fun-loving parade after an agent’s murder, or the nocturnal raids of the two vampires Louis and Lestat in “Interview with a Vampire”.

In the streets around Bourbon Street (or Rue de Bourbon) you will find those magnificent town houses, from whose wrought-iron balconies hang lush ferns while horse-drawn carriages drive over cobblestones. Jugglers and jazz musicians meet outside St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square and cover the city with a never-ending soundtrack. It may  only be drowned out by the horn of a paddle wheel steamer moored on the nearby Mississippi. Since its foundation in 1718, New Orleans has developed into a melting pot of cultures.

Founded by the French, then ruled by the Spanish and finally bought by US President Thomas Jefferson off Napoleon in 1803, European traditions mixed with Caribbean and African traditions. French Catholicism existed parallel to native religions; nobility, citizens and slaves lived in a relatively permeable society – until the racial segregation caused by the annexation to the USA put an end to the rather liberal society. New Orleans is known these days as a destination where you can drop all your inhibitions at least for a weekend. Bourbon Street is something like the ‘Ballermann’ (low culture boozing joints on Majorca) of the USA – but with nicer atmosphere and gayer. While the main street of French Quarter seems to be deserted during the day, it turns into an amusement mile bathed in rainbow-coloured neonlights at night. Apart from the lack curfew one of the special features of the city is that, unlike most cities in the USA, you can drink alcohol openly in the streets. The bars even fill beer and cocktails into plastic cups (“go-cup”) on request, so that you don’t have to stay dry on your way to the next bar.

On the corner of Bourbon and St. Ann Street are the Oz and the Bourbon Pub, the two biggest trendy bars of the city. The latter also houses a club called ‘Parade’ where you can dance until the early morning. If you want to know more about gay New Orleans, call Roberts Batson and his Bienville Foundation. The knowledgeable guide offers a gay heritage tour on request, which not only follows the tracks of Tennessee Williams, but also reveals how a gay citizen is connected to the conspiracy theory surrounding the murder of John F. Kennedy.

Other sightseeing attractions in the city include French Quarter and an excursion to the Garden District. The magnificent southern state mansions along St. Charles Avenue can best be reached by the historic tram that memorialised Tennessee Williams with its drama “A streetcar called Desire”. A classic city tour also comprises a visit to one of the famous cemeteries, some of which resemble small necropolises with their imposing sarcophargi. Hurricane Katrina, that devastated a large parts of the city in 2005, is still an issue.

Whether from a taxi ride from the airport to the city, on sightseeing tours or when talking to locals: Your are told over and over again up to where the water has stood, when one left the city and how one came back again. Fortunately, the French Quarter survived Katrina almost unscathed. No other neighborhood has seen life return so quickly and New Orleans now has more restaurants than ever before. And that’s a good thing, because the city is a true revelation for gourmets. The mix of Creole, American and Cajun cuisine offers some unknown culinary experiences for Europeans: from the simple po’boy, a sort of sandwich to the paella-like jambalaya, to gumbo – a stew of okra and seafood or meat. Other local specialities are turtle soup with sherry, eggs sardou (poached eggs on artichoke bottoms and spinach) and the Bananas Foster (caramelised and flambéed bananas with vanilla ice cream) invented at Brennan’s Restaurant.

If you want to eat your way through all the typical dishes, stop by the daily jazz brunch at the Court of Two Sisters. You not only sit in one of the typical courtyards there, but also have a selection of over 80 typical dishes of the region, including the King cake which is usually served during the Mardi Gras. During that carnival, the city is in a state of alarm and the traces of Mardi Gras can be seen in form of coloured plastic pearl chains caught in trees and street lamps all year round.

The gay Southern Decadence weekend at the end of August is as wild at least. Over 100,000 visitors come to the “Gay Mardi Gras” to celebrate in the French Quarter. The highlight here also is a parade that expresses the very attitude to life of a city, in which one likes to celebrate excessively. It’s just decadent.

INFO

www.neworleanscvb.com
Official homepage of the Tourism Board with many tips and an events’ calendar.

HOW TO GET THERE and ABOUT IN TOWN

Lufthansa offers daily flights to New Orleans with its code share Partner United Airlines via Chicago, New York, Washington or Houston. Return flights are available from Hin-  596 Euros in Economy Class.
www.lufthansa.com

New Orleans is easily accessible by public transport. One highlight is a trip on the historical St Charles Avenue line for 1.25$ that is taking you straight through Garden District.
www.norta.com

HOTELS

Bourbon Orleans Hotel (717 Orleans Street) The traditional five-star hotel is in the center of the French Quarter and only two minutes away from the most popular gay bars.
The courtyard of the hotel accommodates a large swimming pool, www.bourbonorleans.com

Bon Maison Guest House (835 Bourbon Street) gay-owned, very pretty guesthouse, centrally located in the French Quarter, www.bonmaison.com

La Dauphine (2316 rue Dauphine) Gay-owned guesthouse with family atmosphere. Ideal for couples that prefer a quieter location about 2 kilometres away from Burbon Street, www.ladauphine.com

All information about the gay scene is available at SPARTACUS INTERNATIONAL GAY GUIDE or in Spartacus App!

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