Time seems to stand still for a moment. If you park your car at the edge of the picnic area in Cape Lookout State Park and walk just a few meters along the beach, you have it almost to yourself: Oregon’s coast is rough, wild and full of life. The smell of seaweed and salt mixes with the scent of pine trees growing on the cliffs. Small waterfalls fall from there directly into the sea, while seabirds search for food close above the waves.

Here, on the magnificent Pacific Coast Highway on the Lincoln City to Astoria route, lies the nature of the Pacific Ocean at your feet. You can hike here for hours, walk through the hmisty forest to the Cape or walk along the many kilometres of sandbank protruding into the sea. The State Park is just one of many that line up along the coast like pearls on a string. You have breathtaking views of the coast from the highway until you finally reach Cannon Beach with its over 70 meter high rock monolith Haystack Rock. The beach is one of the popular excursion destinations for the inhabitants of Portland, about 130 kilometres distant. While sunbathing here in summer, they come to watching whales in winter as they are passing close to Oregon’s coast.

Portland, the city at the mouth of the Willamette into the Columbia River, experienced its boom as a timber port at the end of the 19th century. Only a few decades after the opening of competing ports in Seattle and Vancouver, economic growth was finished – the city stagnated and decayed until the 1980s. Instead of modern skyscrapers, the city has retained its historically grown structure and many of its buildings, which is a rarity in American cities. And so during a walk in downtown Portland one experiences a largely intact city structure from the early 20th century. Built in 1869, the Pioneer Courthouse is always busy – whether it’s a farmers’ market, a concert or a festival. The square in front of the old courthouse, which by now offers free Wi-Fi, is a good starting point for exploring Portland. From here it is not far to the art museum or the city park on the river bank, from which you have a good view of the old iron bridges spanning the Willamette River. The spot is also ideal for shopping tours.

Since Oregon does without the usual value-added tax in the USA, shopping is always worthwhile. With the rising property prices in San Francisco in the 1980s, more and more artists discovered Portland, a good 1000 kilometres further north. The creative capital gave Portland a new impulse. Instead of being demolished, renovation has been carried out, environmental friendliness is a top priority and organic food dominates the menus of the numerous restaurants. These do not even have to be restaurants in the classical sense, but a food cart scene has developed in Portland that is known far beyond the city’s borders. The mobile kitchens are located in many corners of the city centre and offer delicious dishes from all over the world. Portland has changed in the last 30 years: The computer industry has spread in the city, Nike and Adidas USA have their headquarters here and US trade with Asia is now handled in the port. But you won’t find a yuppie scene like in New York or San Francisco here; the alternative art scene is booming, though.

The gay scene is concentrated around West Burnside Street north of downtown. There is always something going on at the CC Slaughters on weekends. As a bar, stage and club in one, it is always worthwhile to stop by here, even if only for a quick beer. There is a large selection of these in Portland. Portland is known as the American capital of beer; numerous microbreweries are based here and offer a wide variety of dark and light barley juices.

Wine lovers, on the other hand, are in good hands in the Willamette Valley south of the city. Orgeon’s Pinot Noirs are considered excellent wines by connoisseurs. Those looking for a little peace and quiet in the country are best off at the Black Walnut Inn near the town of Dundee. This extraordinary private hotel is surrounded by vineyards and offers its guests not only beautiful views of the gentle hills of the surroundings, but also wine tastings.

Those who drive east from Portland experience a completely different landscape. The Historic Columbia River Highway winds its way through lush green forests along the Columbia River Gorge and offers views of the wide river valley. Dozens of hiking trails lead from the road to waterfalls, some of which are impressive in height. Near the village of Troutdale, for example, the Multnomah Falls plunge to a depth of almost 200 metres. The winter garden in the neighbouring lodge is an ideal stop for a quick lunch. At Troutdale the Columbia River Highway meets the next panoramic road: the snow-capped summit of Mount Hood dominates the landscape around Portland, while the silhouettes of Mount St. Helens, Mount Adam and Mount Rainer can also be seen on a clear day. Mount Hood Scenic Byway leads back to Portland  through a nature reserve east of the almost 3,500-meter-high volcano.

Not only film fans should not miss a detour to the Timberline Lodge at an altitude of 1830 metres. Built in the 1930s as a provision of work during the Great Depression, the lodge was once used by Stanley Kubrick for his film adaptation of Stephen King’s “Shining”. Even in high summer skiing and snowboarding is possible above the lodge thanks to the glaciers. Those who book well in advance can spend the night in the lodge that is built from huge logs.

INFO

www.travelportland.com/lgbt
Official website of the Tourist Board containing a lot of infomation for gay and lesbian visitors.

www.traveloregon.com
Many tips and information about Orgon.

HOW TO GET THERE

Lufthansa offers daily non-stop flights to Seattle and Vancouver where you can connect to Star-Alliance-partners like United to flights to Portland. Return flights from Germany to Portland are available from 700 Euros in Economy.
Keep your eyes open for special offers on
www.lufthansa.com

An attractive alternative is a train trip from Los Angeles or San Francisco up the Pacific coast. Amtraks „Coast Starlight“ provides a daily service to Seattle and also stops in
Portland.
www.amtrak.com/coast-starlight-train

In Portland you can reach all sights on foot, by bike or by public transport. If you go further afield you will have to hire a car. Alamo offers cars at a weekly rate from 160 Euros.
www.alamo.com

HOTELS

Ace Hotel (1022 SW Stark Street) No other hotel fits better into Portland: The Ace in the center of town is a mix of an artist residence and a boutique hotel and offer rooms without ensuite bathroom for budget travellers, www.acehotel.com

Timberline Lodge (27500 E Timberline Road) The lodge at the foot of Mount Hood is one of America’s Historic Landmarks and is an ideal top for just a quick lunch or basecamp for tours up the mountains, www.timberlinelodge.com

Black Walnut Inn (9600 NE Worden Hill Road) You can find quiet and relaxation in this estate that is beautifully wedged between vineyards and Dundee. It is surrounded by plenty of wineries and excellent restaurants, www.blackwalnut-inn.com

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