The coastline can hardly be made out on the hazy horizon. It has been an hour since the speedboat left Boston Harbour and the skyline of the historic East Coast metropolis starts fading after a few minutes. Now the captain switches to full throttle. Passing lighthouses and the sandy peninsula called Cape Cod, the ship glides along placid waters of Massachusetts Bay until you cannot spot any more land. It’s a hot summer’s day, and if you feel like it, you can go to deck and have the spray moisten your face while you feel the sun, salt and wind on your skin. Up there, on a small hill, it is: that tower erected in memory of the first pilgrims who set out for the New World to begin another life.

In the port of Provincetown, the small town on the southern tip of Cape Cod, the Mayflower Treaty was signed by the first European settlers, the earliest document of American self-government. A stone plaque and the above-mentioned tower commemorating this event were erected in 1910. It is considered the landmark of Provincetown and the best lookout point in the region. The view from the top reachers over the former fishing village to the endless beaches and large sand dunes. Cape Cod and Provincetown – some might compare them to Sylt and Westerland: a retreat for the rich, beautiful and all big city dwellers, who are looking for relaxation close to nature. It is also a perfect holiday destination for gays and lesbians, who in Provincetown make up the majority of holidaymakers in summer – other then on Sylt. At least that’s the impression you get when taking a walk along Commercial Street at night.

All major shops, restaurants and bars are located on this narrow street. Male couples in checked shorts an polo shirts are holding hands when walking towards you, ages between mid-20s and mid-70s. Small groups of gay men rather stick out whilst discussing where to go for dinner tonight. It is this family atmosphere that makes this small town so popular. Everything is close, everyone is relaxed and in a good mood. You may even have a chance to flirt a bit – although most of the men are here with their partner.

The gay scene of the East Coast – especially the New York one – made this fishing village at the tip of the Cape their favourite holiday destination in the 1970s and called it P-town for short. Gay artists like Tennessee Williams or Michael Cunningham spent their summers here, Trash icon John Waters (“Hairspray”) still comes to P-town every year and occasionally gives a reading.

The town is perfectly equipped for gay holidaymakers. Many guesthouses are run by gays and offer prefect service. You can choose between a very classy resort complex with pool like Brass Key or small charming inns like White Porch Inn, Revere or Carl’s Guest House. There is also Carpe Diem run by a German couple from the Rhineland, which even houses its own small spa. Some of these resorts are also open in winter and therefore most rooms even have thier own fireplace. You can thus enjoy a snug holiday without the hustle and bustle that is Cape Cod in summer.

The best way to get to gay Herring Cove Beach in the western part of P-town is to rent a bike and transport everything you need for a day on the beach (including food and drink). At the end of Bradford Street turn right and after a few hundred metres you will find a bicycle parking space. From there it is a 20-minute walk through the dunes before you reach the actual beach. Those who are fit enough could now walk to the tip of the peninsula, Long Point. It is more relaxed to look for a comfy spot on the beach or in the dunes and lesirely roast in the sun.

The more athletic of you can cycle around Cape Cod National Seashore Park or take an adventurous jeep tour across the sand dunes. At Art’s Dune Tours you can also book a private excursion, including a romantic sunset picnic. The Dolphin Fleet, on the other hand, takes you out to sea to observe dolphins, fin whales and humpback whales. The close proximity of Provincetown to the Stellwagen Bank marine reserve makes whale watching a wonderful experience.

Nightlife in Provincetown starts already at 16h00 if you really think of it. The probably most famous and oldest T-dance in the country starts in the Boatslip on the Commercial Street at that hour. This is the birthplace of what is now a standard weekly gay event – at least in the US. You stand on the pool terrace with a cocktail or beer in your hand, look at the sea and sun about to set and then start dancing. The t-dance in the Boatslip takes place daily, but it gets especially crowded on weekends. It finishes at about 8p.m. and the guys then either make their way to the surrounding restaurants for dinner, go to the theatre or a drag show or simply go home.

In contrast to the rest of the state there is a curfew at 1am, so if you want to go to one of the bars and clubs like Crown & Anchor or the very popular Atlantic House, you have to keep that in mind. But you can be sure that you will see all the men again  you saw a few hours ago on Commerical Street or at the t-dance. In P-town, you are just one big family.

INFO

www.provincetowntourismoffice.org
Official homepage of the tourist office with plenty of information and  event calendar – with designated part of gays and lesbians.

www.neuenglandusa.de
Official homepage of the New England states, i.a. suggestions intineraries.

HOW TO GET THERE

Lufthansa offers daily departures to Boston from Frankfurt and 5 weekly flights from Munich non-stop. Return tickets are available from 509 Euros. Keep you eyes peeled for special offers on the airline’s homepage, www.lufthansa.com

Cape Air connects Boston Logan International Airport and Provincetown. One-way tickets are available from 125 USD, www.flycapeair.com

Bay State Cruise Company offers three daily catamaran services from Boston to Provincetown from May to October. Return tickets are available from 79 USD, a reservation is recommended. Taxis and water taxis (ca. 10 bis 15 USD) bring you from Boston Logan Airport to the piers, www.baystatecruisecompany.com

HOTELS

Brass Key Guest House (62 Bradford Street) Beautiful resort situated on a hill that is considered the best accommodation in town as is Crowne Pointe Historic Inn Hotel, www.brasskey.com

White Porch Inn (7 Johnson Street) Classy gay BnB that has managed to unite historical features of the building and modern interior, www.whiteporchinn.com

Revere Guest House (14 Court Street) Gay guesthouse in a historical captain’s house, www.reverehouse.com

Carl’s Guest House (68 Bradford Street) One of the oldest gay guesthouses in town with a family atmosphere, www.carlsguesthouse.com

NIGHTLIFE

Bistro at Crowne Pointe (82 Bradford Street) Restaurant of Hotel Crowne Pointe Inn, located on top of a hill offers excellent regional cuisine (seafood, lobster) and also a magnificent view on Provincetown and Pilgrim Monument, www.crownepointe.com/restaurant

Spiritus Pizza (190 Commercial Street) An institution in the gay scene for those still up after curfew, www.spirituspizza.com

Boatslip 161 (Commercial Street) The oldest gay t-dance starts here daily at 16h00. The best time to join the crowd is on weekends as you get most of the 5USD admission then. www.boatslipresort.com/teadance.htm

Crown & Anchor (247 Commercial Street) Probably the biggest gay complex in town comprising at hotel, video bar, cruising bar, restaurant, theatre and dance club, www.onlyatthecrown.com

Atlantic House (4-6 Manison Place) Most popular club in town with its own small terrace and housing Macho Bar for real blokes, www.ahouse.com

More gay hotels can be found here

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