There are few places for American gays that appear in more myths and stories than Fire Island. It is actually only two communities to which the island owes its fame: Cherry Grove, which is particularly popular with lesbians, and The Pines, an exclusively gay settlement. The history of Fire Island goes back a long way. In the 1920’s already, the island was regarded as a safe refuge for gays, who were persecuted and harassed in the rest of US just for being gay. Stonewall was not even imaginable. To these days, the locals are proud to live in a place where heteros are clearly in minority. It is not surprising that there is hardly any diva who has not visited Fire Island at least once.

Marlene Dietrich and Marilyn Monroe have sunbathed on the beach, Andy Warhol and Calvin Klein have watched the boys, and Truman Capote has surely enjoyed more than one martini on Fire Island. The Village People had their first gigs here, and Cher is reported to have come in by helicopter. It could have happened 20 years ago that your seat neighbour on the ferry was Madonna. Fire Island, a barrier island on the southern side of Long Island, east coast New York state may already be past its peak.

Nonetheless it is still one of the few places in the world where recreation, prosperity, beauty and gayness go in blissful unison. Getting to this piece of paradise is not easy at all, though. The train journey takes you from downtown New York to Sayville on Long Island; but you have to chagne trains a few times. A taxi takes you from Sayvill station to Fire Island Ferry, which takes you eventually either to Cherry Grove or directly to Pines in about 30 minutes. Off the pier to your holiday home or to the hotel is on foot. You will have to carry your luggage and many bring their own food as the number of restaurants in Pines is pretty limited. In return you feel like in gay paradise from the first moment on.

Vegetation is almost tropical, sand dunes surround the wide beach, wooden walkways lead from house to house. You usually share spacious beach houses with other guests, there are hardly any alternatives. Sleeping on the beach is not only strictly forbidden, but can even be lethal as the poet Frank O’Hara has experienced. A beach buggy ran him over in the morning before he woke up. The only hotel in Pines, the Ciel, is usually fully booked long in advance. 300 dollars for a comfy, but rather basic room not really value for money.

In neighbouring Cherry Grove, however, the Hotel Belvedere boasts lavish decoration. The hotel – like many of its guests – is somewhat outdated, but the faded splendour can still be guessed. In addition, the view of the bay is simply fantastic. Those who own a house on the island come from New York or have friends there. “Owning” on Fire Island almost always means sharing, as the houses usually have at least three to four bedrooms and can only be rented for the entire season, which lasts from April to September. Therefore, one usually acquires a “share” with friends and acquaintances long in advance, i.e. a share in a bed or a room for a limited time. Some people also afford a usually very attractive “houseboy”, who in return for his free accommodation takes care of the house and the shopping and of course cleans the pool as lightly as possible. These houses form the centre of the gay island life – one lies together at the pool, relaxes, reads books, listens to music or cooks together. House parties are a frequent and popular event and can range from the well-kept pool party to more exuberant orgies.

A typical day on Fire Island starts with a visit to the beach. There you can lie in the sun, play volleyball, go for a walk or watch cute guys. At noon you can restore yourself at Bay Bar with burgers and tasty fries and you can watch the incoming and outgoing ferries, bringing over fresh gay guests, but also attractive staff. The locals of Pines and Cherry Grove usually don’t mix. The area between the settlements, called Meat Rack, is a famous cruising spot for many holidaymakers and they are at it between dunes and trees until late at night. The evening starts at around 5p.m. The Blue Whale is famous for its the Tea Dance, that was invented on the island.

The first Vodka Cranberry, quite strong, mixed by athletic, topless guys, provides the right holiday feeling at “Low Tea”. You can even smoke here in a designated outdoor area, but must not hold a drink in your hands – accroding to the latest New York regulation. “High-Tea” in the adjacent bar at 19h00 gives you a glimpse of what pleasures the weekend might hold for you. The vodka cranberry has become a “Britney’s”, even more expensive, its taste sweeter and containing even more alcohol. VJ Chloe entertains the guests with a bizarre mix of Cher and Madonna videos. Celine Dion provides the dramatic background as another ferry arrives and releases the next load of men.

Many guests will have moved from small talk to a lot more personal chats by the time the dance floors of the the two clubs in Pines get busy. Most of the guests have then taken off their t-shirts and some, at Frisky Friday Underwear Party, also their trousers – America is not as prudish here for once. And although everybody is flirting, the hopes are rising and intentions become obvious, the mood remains relaxed. One reason for this is that there are no ferries at night and nobody can reach or leave the island until morning.
(Published in Spartacus Traveler 2/2010)

INFOS

www.fireisland.com
Comprehensive homepage with information on hotels, flat-sharing, parties and events.

HOW TO GET THERE

Air Berlin offers daily departures from Dusseldorf and 4 weekly departures from Berlin  to New York JFK non-stop. One-way tickets are available from 209.99 Euros (inclusind services charges and arimiles), www.airberlin.com

Long Island Railroad takes you from Penn station, New York to Sayville (you have to change trains at Jamaica or Babylon). The journey takes about 1,5 hours and  costs 9.50 Dollars off-peak. The taxi or shuttle bus from Sayville to the ferry pier cost ca. 5 USD, the ferry to Pines or Cherry Grove on Fire Island costs ca. 7 USD (30 mins crossing),
www.mta.info/lirr
www.fireislandferries.com

HOTELS

Accommodation on Fire Island should be booked well in advance. Apart from the few hotels there is also flat sharing on offer and BnBs available by now.

Hotel Ciel (Harbor Walk) Not the most ritzy but most popular hotel as it is bang next to the pier and the nightclubs. Blue Whale bar and the only gym on the island can be found in this complex, www.thepinesfireisland.com

Grove Hotel (Bayview Walk) The largest hotel on the island is located in the party area of Cherry Grove and close to the beach, www.grovehotel.com

Belvedere Guest House (Cherry Grove) Gay guesthouse in a sumptuous Victorian style in Cherry Grove Bay, www.belvederefireisland.com

NIGHTLIFE

All bars and clubs in Pines share a complex by the harbour. Admission is free for all bars and clubs, beers start at 5 USD, cocktails at 15 USD, www.thepinesfireisland.com

Please follow and like us: